Looking for a "Cruscotto piatto"?

Since the interior of our car is essentially gutted, it gives us great freedom in its restoration. Our aim, of course, is to stay as close to the original as possible. If there's one thing I truly dislike—and this goes double for historic vehicles—it's non-original modifications. The sight of a GT Junior with seats from a GTV, or a Giulia 1300 Super with a center console from a Giulia Nuova, is a real eyesore to me.The biggest controversy in the GT Junior interior is undoubtedly its dashboard. Personally, I believe nothing compares to the original flat dashboard, known as the Cruscotto piatto, and it fits the car best. Between 1968 and 1970, cars were built in a 'transition stage' where the exterior remained the original Scalino version, but the interior underwent a major change with a completely new, more modern dashboard and gauges shared with the GTV 1750 or the Spider. It wasn't until after 1970 that the front of the car changed fundamentally, with the legendary 'step' disappearing as the front end was unified.

Finding an original flat dashboard today is nearly impossible. If you're lucky enough to come across one anywhere in Europe, the asking price will likely knock you off your feet. Over the past year, I've found two: one in Germany for €2,500 and another in Italy for an even €3,000. Furthermore, their condition required repairs, meaning even more investment. So, what do you do if you really want one in your GT? You have to custom-build it. Companies like Alfaholics, OKP, or Alfa Classic offer lightweight 'shells' usually intended for racing, where functionality and weight matter more than aesthetics. Mind you, even these bare replicas aren't cheap, typically costing around €700. This is the path I chose. When the product arrived from England after two weeks, it didn't exactly spark joy—but it was the beginning of the story I am presenting in the gallery below as inspiration for those who might want to tackle this themselves.

The first issue is that the instrument holes aren't pre-cut, so you have to tackle that yourself. Although it seemed simple, the opposite was true—the material was incredibly hard, and cutting circular holes without damaging or chipping it proved to be a challenge. In the end, I chose a primitive but effective method: drill a hole in the center large enough to insert a jigsaw blade, then cut strips outward from the center like sun rays.A word of caution: I recommend not cutting all the way to the edge; it's better to leave some 'meat' behind. Once most of the material is removed, it's much easier to reach the edge with the blade and finalize the circular cutout—the edges then just need a bit of sanding. Regardless, I highly recommend constantly test-fitting the gauges and removing material millimeter by millimeter. If it's a tight fit, the gauges will stay in place without needing tedious mounting hardware. Finally, measure the correct spots for the ignition lock and toggle switches before finishing, so you don't have to drill into fresh paint or upholstery and risk damaging it.

The final design of the dashboard depends entirely on your preference. If you opt for a wood grain finish, simply choose a suitable adhesive vinyl wrap and use a scalpel to cut out the openings; you can also use a hairdryer to heat the vinyl so it molds better around the instrument cowls. I decided on a matte black textured paint. I recommend spraying from a greater distance to avoid creating 'runs' or ripples in the paint, as I did. Apply several layers until the finish is uniform and you are satisfied with the result—I applied four coats. Before painting, I suggest hand-sanding the entire dashboard with fine sandpaper (e.g., 400 grit) to scuff the smooth surface, which helps the paint and adhesive bond better. And, of course, degrease it and make sure it's dust-free.

The biggest challenge seems to be upholstering the dashboard with vinyl. You can order the material together with the dashboard or buy it at a fabric store. For bonding, I recommend chloroprene-based adhesives, ideally the 'Extreme' version. Work slowly and deliberately. Here, the motto 'measure twice, cut once' applies more than ever. The adhesive is applied to both surfaces; the key is to let it dry until it's no longer tacky to the touch—do not rush this. I suggest having someone help you hold the dashboard steady; it's best done with 'six hands.' Before gluing, mask off the already painted areas with tape to prevent any glue from getting on them, otherwise, the final look will be ruined.You don't need to be precise to the millimeter at the edges, as a decorative trim will be attached where the paint and vinyl meet. Start gluing from this edge to ensure a straight cut line there. Don't be stingy with the vinyl; it's easier to trim excess than to deal with a shortage. Apply the vinyl under tension and press it firmly to the base immediately to avoid air pockets, which cannot be removed later. Stretch it slowly across the entire surface. I recommend covering the upper horizontal part of the dashboard first, followed by the lower part in a second step. Finally, trim the edges with a scalpel or scissors, but I suggest leaving some excess material until the moment of installation in the car; it can help cover the underlying base in spots where the fit might not be optimal.

For the decorative trim, I used a 4mm wide plastic strip (though 6mm might be even better) with an adhesive backing. Start to the right of the steering column area and gradually peel off the protective film—do not stretch the trim. If it's applied under tension, it will eventually peel off. You can apply it in two pieces, starting with the lower section and then the horizontal upper part; the original also has a joint. I decided to apply it as a single continuous piece.